In the artful Parisian neighborhood of Montmontre, the celebrated Brasserie Saint Jean has reopened after a four-month renovation, ushering in a new era for the humble yet essential French diner. Writer Dan Latif takes a bite.

Inside Brasserie Saint Jean: Where Montmartre Takes on the Flavors of Aveyron

Editor’s Note
This article was originally written in French. The English translation is provided for convenience and is edited for clarity. Please consult a professional translator for further assistance.

On the corner of rue des Abbesses (consistently regarded as “the most beautiful street in Paris”), Le Saint Jean stands proudly as a Parisian brasserie with timeless charm. Its façade, unmistakably Parisian, catches the eye with wide bay windows, golden lettering, a marquee, plus a striped awning adorned with greenery. On the terrace, woven rattan Gatti chairs and round tables complete the Belle Époque aesthetic, elegantly brought back to life. Here, every detail matters: from the Peugeot pepper mill to the mustard pot, nothing is left to chance.

What is a brasserie?
A brasserie began in 19th-century France as a brewery that served simple meals to workers. Over time it evolved into a full-service restaurant while retaining its democratic spirit: bustling rooms, mirrored walls, tiled floors, and dependable French fare served from morning until late night.

Now, after four months of renovations, Le Saint Jean is reborn. Inside, visitors are greeted by a surprising detail: a sign from the town of Bozouls, a hidden gem in Aveyron, a stony and deeply medieval area near Toulouse. Aveyron, famous for its horseshoe-shaped canyon, is the home territory of Arnaud, the passionate owner of both Le Saint Jean and Le Nazir, another Montmartre institution. His ambition is clear: to make Le Saint Jean a unique place where the classics of Parisian brasserie cuisine meet the generous flavors of Aveyron.

A Menu Between Tradition and Terroir

For the apéritif, the house specialty is the “Spritz Montmartroise”, a creative twist on the classic cocktail, crafted with a liqueur made from the marc of grapes harvested in Montmartre’s own vineyards, just a few steps away from the brasserie.

Aligot Croquettes at Le Saint Jean. Image: Dan Latif.

At the table, conviviality is the key. Guests share aligot croquettes, crunchy radishes with butter and fleur de sel, or Burgundy snails prepared by Maison Valentin. Then come the brasserie staples: the Croque Saint Jean made with country bread, or a freshly chopped Aubrac beef tartare, served with homemade fries.

Arnaud of Le Saint Jean. Image: Dan Latif.

But the true signature dish, the one not to be missed, is the Aveyron sausage with aligot—served with a spectacular flourish by Arnaud himself, pulling the cheese-filled mash in a copper pot until it stretches in silky ribbons.

What is aligot?
Aligot is a dish originating from the Aveyron region, made from cheese blended into mashed potatoes and other ingredients.

To end on a high note, Le Saint Jean calls upon one of the masters of French pastry: Gilles Marchal, former head pastry chef at five-star destinations such as Plaza Athénée and Le Bristol. His rum baba and chocolate profiteroles bring the meal to an elegant and indulgent close.

Every quarter, the world champion of aligot, Guillaume Roche, puts on a dazzling demonstration here—stretching the famous dish skyward, turning it into a true spectacle.

Interior of Le Saint Jean. Image: Dan Latif.

Le Saint Jean is more than just a brasserie: it is a vibrant gathering place where Parisian authenticity, Aveyronnais generosity, and festive conviviality come together. And when the accordion drifts through the Montmartre streets outside, the atmosphere takes on the charm of a living postcard—somewhere between tradition and poetry.

Le Saint Jean is open daily until 2:00 AM and is located at 23 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris, France.