With centuries of royal commissions, France’s last independent jewelry house isn’t exactly a secret—but its dazzling showcase at the French Embassy’s cultural annex felt like one. Emily Ming-An Wang brings you into a world of intrigue, history, and jaw-dropping luxury.

Royal Secrets, Hidden Jewels: Inside Mellerio’s Dazzling Return to New York

Archival Creations by Mellerio. Image: Andrey and Melissa.

Goldsmiths and chimney sweepers. Waterfall dripping diamonds, fishnet delicate weaved gold, garden landscaped settings. Assassination. I don’t need to know, to know where this inspiration comes from.

Emily Ming-An Wang. Image: Emily Ming-An Wang.

My morning intention: Since I’m going to the French embassy, will there be French croissants? Upon seeing the French flag waving outside the Stanford White-designed Villa Albertine, I wonder if God is telling me to go to France this summer. Entering Villa Albertine, I’m greeted by Italian marble interiors, and perhaps what might be an early Michelangelo statue depicting youth.

I am here for a private showing of its latest high jewelry collection by Mellerio, a 15th-generation French house and the last independent royal jewelry maker in France.

Upon check-in, I enter the elevator to the fifth floor, where my purse accidentally bangs the buttons so hard, it halts to an emergency stop. No. It’s just a very gradual accession.

At the fifth floor– the very top floor– I follow a hallway to what once was writer/poet Helen Hay Whitney’s study, the very place where she worked and entertained. Closed for some time for renovations, this top-floor atelier features large windows open to Central Park, and the original brick fireplace is currently the safe-haven for Mellerio’s 19th century jewelry; the tommette de Provence flooring hosts a long table displaying Mellerio’s current collection, and the wood ceiling ornate rosettes mirror the fine details crafted into Mellerio’s art below.

Iconic French treats at Mellerio’s Private Showing at Villa Albertine.. Image: Emily Ming-An Wang.

In a corner corner, there they are: French mini croissants along with other small bites with French origins: financiers, chocolate croissants, something with smoked salmon. It would be unprofessional of me to not try the French croissant at the French embassy hosted by the French jewelry maker to royalty. I take one bite. Another just to make sure. Another because I am a professional. Just like the ambiance, the company, the environment, this croissant is as expected: Elegant.

Poetic Creations Inspired by History and Geography

Drawing inspiration from its own archive, Mellerio highlighted three distinct jewelry sets from the Restoration Era, a time when Napoleon was gone and the Parisian royal family returned to reign. Big stones in bold colors of aquamarine, amethyst, and citrine were used since more the expensive diamonds were harder to source.

Woven gold made to look like thick ropes but were actually hollow gave the image of grandness. Three types of gold (pink, yellow, and green) were used to add dimension. No one had money, but everyone wanted to celebrate. This was the end of hard times.

Mellerio shop, rue de la Paix, early 20th century. Image: Mellerio

With their origins in Italy, the Mellerio family moved to Paris with their background in goldsmithing in the winter and chimney sweeping in the summer. One such chimney sweep at the Louvre (when it was a royal palace and not a tourist museum) a Mellerio family member overheard an assassination plot of the King, and was able to intercept the murder. As a “small” thank you, the Mellerio family was granted forever protection, eventually leading to royalty from all over the world to buy Mellerio fine jewelry.

The story reminds me of a Chinese BBQ duck seller on Instagram. On the video, he is seen smelling a duck. “This duck doesn’t smell right. I’m going to get you a fresh duck,” and as he moves from the counter to the pot of fresh ducks, the roof suddenly collapses, with a table stabbing the floor where he was just standing. Watching his own imminent death prevented by his own good doing, I’m reminded of the comments, “Good karma.”

Italian Influences, and Pure Decadence at Mellerio

Today, Mellerio continues to modernize its vast family-owned design history. Mellerio’s Pierreries collection follows tradition with delicate pink, yellow, green gold design, and striking clarity stones, but with modern adaptability.

Pierreries necklaces are worn layered together with different colors, as well as the Pierreries Rose Up or Rose Down earring sold as a single, that can be paired with Peirreries stud. This latest iteration is in pink, perfect for spring/summer. A chandelier Peirreries charm is able to be used with their Lien Pierres line of chains of gold, beads, and, allowing personalization with a variety of metal charms. Along the lines of charms, their 9 Jardin Suspends Bracelet includes motifs seen in my most favorite display of this showcase.

Given the Italian origin of the brand, the terrain of Italian landscapes set in fine jewelry is a strong theme. Villa d’Este flows through the diamond Waterfall necklace, Waterfall earrings and a Waterfall bracelet I wish I could swim in. Hanging fishnets of the small fisherman island in Lake Maggiore, Isola deli Pescatori inspires the thin yet strong gold netting of the Maglia line, splattered with diamonds.

*Lago* ring, chalcedony, unheated oval Burmese ruby (1.38 ct), tsavorites, diamonds, rose gold. Photo: Mellerio

Ring settings with a bird's-eye view of perfectly symmetric Italian gardens of the Renaissance point to refinement and opulence after a harsh middle age period. Again, a celebration to the end of hard times. Is Mellerio Fine Jewelry a sign to visit Italy and France this summer?!

Final Thoughts

“You must exit through the stairs,” I overhear, “It’s beautiful.” As I descend back to earth from my morning surrounded by sparkling stones and blue skies, the hand-painted walls blend through the color gradient of a rainbow. Landing on the Marble Room and Ballroom, I take a mirror selfie with the high ceiling gilded doors, before my final purple carpeted marble steps to what is the Albertine Bookshop level, a.k.a., the lobby.

Venetian Room at Villa Albertine. iMAGE: Emily Ming-An Wang.

Behind a small red curtain lays the roped off Venetian Room Restoration Project. So ornate with gold, mirror, and historical accuracy, I understand why so many names were needed to fund it. Behind the next small red curtain lays the grand... security control room. My sign to go back to reality.

Inside a woven tote, Mellerio gifts their signature fragrance Couleur Vendôme, incorporating every life stage of a Monterosa Rose with a bit of orange blossom and Florentine iris— a scent to remember this experience melding French and Italian heritage in New York City. When asked what’s the significance behind this privately held company of fifteen generations, Laure-Isabelle Mellerio shares simply, “Family.”

Explore and shop Maison Mellerio here. Follow the brand on Instagram here.